OUTERWEAR - SPORT JACKETS
MAIN TOPIC: This category includes very different garments for materials, weight, models, use and functions (i.e. paddock jackets, shooting jackets, peacot, field jackets, down jackets, bomber, paddock, quilted jackets, parkas, windbreakers, etc). This makes it rather difficult to define overall technical requirements for materials. For example, a Goose down jacket could need a sinthetic strong lining (i.e. polyammide) which is absolutely avoided for a wool paddock jacket. Anyway, the common challengs is the use of materials and craftsmanship assuring full compliance with tech needs (wind, rain, sun, cold, travel, etc) joint with comfort and aesthetic pleasure.
Differently from dress coats, these garments don't need to challenge the gravity. They simply have to drape on the body without any defect, that is folds, wrinkles or curlings. It's not an easy task, since you need lot of competences to work and combine the most different materials and shapes. Quality of raw materials is the basic condition.
TIME FOR QUALITY: At least 5 hours of human work for simpler garments
FABRIC SUPPLIERS: Cashmere, Wool, Silk: Italy or UK (cashmere is not clearly traced and it is often subject to lots of adulterations. So, reputation of suppliers is mandatory). Calf: Western Europe (possibly USA); Deer: Usa, Europe; Sheep: Europe, North-Sout Africa; Synthetic textiles (polyammide, nylon, etc): Japan or Europe
PROCESS: Manual Tracing of Shades and Templates on fabrics and hand-cutting (no laser)
For Leathers: matching of right colours among the single leather (you need the leather of 20 sheeps in order to make a sherling jacket) is the number 1 key factor for quality; human check on leather quality. For Fabrics: Respect of continuity between line and circles; fabrics check
PROCESS: Use of flatiron in various steps
Right volumes and outlines
SEWING (for Fabrics): No less then 5 stitches per centimeter
Resistance; folds or curlings reduction
SEWING: buttons as handmade sewed
Resistance, they don't pull out
MATERIALS - LEATHER: use only of entire leather (the whole animal) and full grain (not splitted); so, also the thinnest leather for spring-summer garment is "full grain"
Aestethic pleasure, softness, duration with no leather downfalls
MATERIALS - BUTTONS: natural material (Horn, Corozo, ..). Plastic for expections (i.e. the stylist choose a colur or shape obtainable only with plastics)
Aesthetic plesure, duration
MATERIALS - DOWN PILLOW: no less than 80% of Downs (remaining 20% of Feathers)
Warmer per square centimeter; lightness; duration (goose downs dont have a spine down the center, called quill, that the feathers have. Such spine often comes out of the textile, after a long use)
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