1. TIME: Quality needs time
.B Concept: "Clothes are a Language" - .B Clothes
MINIMUM TIME FOR .B QUALITY: SUITS: 12 Hours; SHIRTS: 4 Hours;
SHOES: 6 Hours; TIES; 1.5 Hours; SWEATERS: 3.5 Hours
Only when all the grains of sands are fallen, the garment is well done.
No less, possibly more..
If you ask a skilled worker to sew 10 buttons an hour, rest assured those buttons will never pull out. If you ask him 20 buttons an hour, you should not be so sure anymore. So, for each category of clothes, we have defined a minimum amount of time we consider indispensable to ensure quality. That's according to our knowledge and experts' interviews.
Craftsmanship takes time. Today, most of the garments (for instance: shoes finished with shining spray, not breathing polish cream) are made to astonish the impulse-driven customer. Buy they don't ensure wellness and duration in the course of time. Wellness, Duration and Aesthetic Pleasure are the key stars of Sandro.B Quality.
Human work isn't the only thing that requires time. It also takes time to prepare fabrics or yarn or leather and finish the garment. The quality knitters take a lot of time to moister yarns and treat them with wax. Svevo, the ultralight sweater maker, keeps its yarns two days moistering in special closets before working them.
2. BRANDS: 50 Years of History, at least
Sandro.B only selects brands with at least 50 years of history. Some exceptions are possible if the new brand comes from a strong local heritage (es: Brunello Cucinelli was founded in 1978 in "Perugia and Umbria" where n. 13.000 workers were employed in knitwear and cashmere whose heritage went back to the beginnings of '900).
History ensures the fundamental competences and assets. Think, for example, at how the right anatomic modeling of the male foot is probably the first strength of the great shoes manufacturers.
An old image from the plant of The Master of Wool "Vitale Barberis Canonico"
whose activity goes back to 1663.
3. PRODUCTION: Unique plant/lab
All main manufacturing operations (from raw materials to shipping) should be made in a single workshop. Possible exceptions only for secondary makings or short periods of time.
The artisan quality cannot be delegated, apart from low percentages and brief periods of time.
4. WORKFORCE: Internal and Loyal
Selection and training of own human resources for modelling, cut, execution, ironing, packing and control.
Some of the most important brands (for ex. Brioni, Kiton, Brunello Cucinelli...) founded and managed Sartorial Schools in order to ensure the transfer of know how and competences between generations.
Hereunder, Enzo Bonafè team, the master shoemaker from bolognese school
Sandro.B Quality requires artisan processes inside production workshops. And the success of artisan techniques depends on the knowhow of loyal workers who act and transfer such knowledge.
5. FABRICS SUPPLIERS (or yarn, leather): Western Europe
We have a strong preference for European (somewhat US or Japan) suppliers which represent quality, history and guarantees for both enivronment and labour conditions.
Besides, rather than leather, cashmere fabrics do not own a consolidated tracking system, so the provider's reputation is almost mandatory.
Biella (Italy) and Huddersfield (England) for wool; Como (Italia) e Macclesfield for silk; Scottish Border and Valsesia (Italia) for cashmere. These are sacred places for quality and history of clothes.
But they are contemporary and innovative, too. The Italian international leader of wool fabrics "Vitale Barberis Canonico" leads the most automated plant in the world but the pre-finishing control ("pinzatura") is still made by human workers who look at the fabrics through a back-lighted panel discovering the small defects or imperfections. Moreover, they acquires yarns coming only from natural or semi-natural breedings.
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